My Love-Hate Relationship with Santorini

Let me set the scene: I arrived on a blustery November afternoon, my ferry was delayed by two hours, and by the time I reached my hotel in Oia, all the famous sunset spots were shrouded in fog.

I'd saved for months for this trip, scrolling through Instagram photos of white-washed buildings and blue-domed churches, imagining romantic sunsets and lazy days by the pool. But my first 24 hours were a reality check.

I almost booked an early flight off the island the next morning. But something told me to stay, to look beyond the Instagram-perfect facade. And that decision changed everything.

The Day I Got Lost in Oia

One of my most vivid memories from that first trip was getting completely lost in Oia. I'd set out to find a supposedly "secret" sunset spot that a local had mentioned, but I took a wrong turn and ended up in a residential area.

My phone battery died, I didn't have a map, and I couldn't find anyone who spoke English. I wandered for over an hour, getting more frustrated by the minute.

Just when I was about to panic, an elderly Greek woman invited me into her home for coffee. She didn't speak a word of English, but she made me a strong Greek coffee and pointed me in the right direction.

By the time I found my way back, the sun had already set. But that unexpected detour taught me something important: the best moments in Santorini aren't the ones you plan.

What I Wish I Knew Before My First Trip

The Truth About Sunsets in Oia

Yes, the sunsets are incredible. But here's the thing: you need to arrive at least an hour early to get a good spot. I once waited 40 minutes in the cold, only to have clouds roll in right as the sun was setting.

Don't limit yourself to Oia, either. Try the sunset from Imerovigli or even the beach—you'll have fewer crowds and just as beautiful views.

The Bus System Is Both Blessing and Curse

The public buses are cheap (only €2 per ride) and cover most of the island. But they're also unreliable. I once waited 90 minutes for a bus that never came, forcing me to take an expensive taxi.

My tip: Download the KTEL Santorini app for schedules, but always have a backup plan. And avoid buses during peak hours (7-9 AM and 5-7 PM) when they're packed.

Not All Beaches Are Created Equal

Santorini's beaches have black sand, which looks cool but gets incredibly hot. I made the mistake of walking barefoot to the water once—big mistake. My feet burned for hours.

Pack water shoes, and try to visit beaches in the morning or late afternoon when the sand is cooler. Red Beach is beautiful but crowded, while Perissa Beach has better facilities.

Local Spots That Made Me Fall in Love

A Hidden Tavern in Pyrgos

During my second trip, I stayed in Pyrgos instead of Oia. It's a small village in the center of the island, much quieter than the tourist hubs.

I found a tiny tavern run by a family where the owner cooked whatever was fresh that day. I ate the best moussaka of my life there, and the owner even taught me how to make Greek salad the traditional way.

Most tourists never make it to Pyrgos, but it's my favorite village on the island. The views from the top are just as stunning as Oia, but with no crowds.

Wine Tasting Off the Beaten Path

Santorini is famous for its wines, especially Assyrtiko. But you don't need to go to the fancy wineries with tour buses.

I stumbled upon a small family winery in Megalochori where the owner gave me a private tour. He let me taste wines straight from the barrel and even shared his grandmother's recipe for stuffed grape leaves.

The wine was incredible, and the experience was far more personal than any organized wine tour I've ever done.

Practical Tips for Your Santorini Trip

When to Go (And When to Avoid)

High Season (June-August): Beautiful weather, but extremely crowded and expensive. Hotels can be 3x more expensive than shoulder season.

Shoulder Season (April-May, September-October): Perfect balance of good weather, smaller crowds, and lower prices. This is when I prefer to visit.

Low Season (November-March): Fewer crowds and great deals, but some restaurants and shops close, and weather can be unpredictable. I've had both wonderful and terrible trips during low season.

What to Pack (That You Might Not Think Of)

  • Water shoes: Essential for the black sand beaches
  • Power bank: You'll be taking lots of photos, and outlets can be scarce
  • Warm layers: Even in summer, evenings can be chilly
  • Sunscreen: The sun is intense, especially with the reflection off the white buildings
  • Comfortable walking shoes: The streets are narrow and cobblestoned

How to Save Money

  • Stay in Fira or Perissa instead of Oia (cheaper and more central)
  • Use public buses instead of taxis
  • Eat at family-run taverns instead of tourist restaurants
  • Buy wine directly from wineries
  • Visit free attractions like the beaches and villages

Questions I Get Asked Most About Santorini

Is Santorini worth the hype?

Yes and no. The views are incredible, but it's become very touristy. You need to look beyond the main attractions to find the real Santorini. If you're willing to explore, it's absolutely worth it.

How many days do I need in Santorini?

I'd recommend 3-4 days. Any less and you'll feel rushed. Any more and you might start to feel like there's not enough to do (unless you're planning to relax on the beach all day).

Is it safe for solo travelers?

Yes, I've traveled solo in Santorini multiple times and felt perfectly safe. Just use common sense—don't walk alone in dark alleys at night, and keep an eye on your belongings in crowded areas.

Do I need to rent a car?

It's not necessary, but it can be helpful. The public buses cover most areas, but having a car gives you more flexibility. Just be aware that parking can be difficult in Oia and Fira.

Why Santorini Keeps Calling Me Back

After three trips to Santorini, I've learned that the island is more than just pretty pictures. It's about the unexpected moments—the old woman who invited me into her home, the winemaker who shared his family's secrets, the sunset I watched from a random rooftop because I got lost.

Santorini isn't perfect. The crowds can be overwhelming, the prices are high, and things don't always go as planned. But that's part of its charm.

My advice? Don't try to see everything. Slow down, get lost on purpose sometimes, and talk to the locals. You'll have a much more authentic experience.

And if your first day is a disaster like mine was? Give it another chance. Santorini has a way of surprising you when you least expect it.

About the Author

Alexandra Rivera is a travel writer who's visited over 40 countries. She's not a professional photographer or a luxury traveler—just someone who loves exploring new places and sharing her experiences.

Her first trip to Santorini was a disaster, but she fell in love with the island anyway. She's since returned twice, each time discovering something new.

When she's not traveling, you can find her at home in Barcelona, planning her next adventure.

Update Information

This guide was last updated in February 2026 based on Alexandra's most recent trip to Santorini.

Conditions on the island can change, so please verify information before planning your trip.